Chockstone - Site Of The Week?
Posted: Tuesday, August 27, 2002
COL, I don't know if you ever review sites outside of the US, but if so, perhaps take a look at: http://www.chockstone.org It provides on on-line guide to climbing around Victoria, Australia, as well as a photo, video and trip report gallery, numerous tech tips, dictionary, local forum, links and so on. A lot of the content is focused on Australian climbing, however, international climbers should still get value from the Tech Tips, and the climbing Book and Movie reviews which are currently hovering around the 200 entry mark. Read a climbing book? Seen a climbing movie? Posting your review only takes a minute and adds to a growing resource.
Saxony in Switzerland
Posted: Friday, August 16, 2002
Hello, I was climbing "Die Saechsische Schweiz" (Saxony in Switzerland) Regards Michael http://www.blumenversand.tk
From: John Blackman
Posted: Tuesday, July 30, 2002
Do you guys know the status of climbing at Skytop? TIA!
Getting in touch with George Willig
Posted: Saturday, July 27, 2002
I was wondering if anyone would know an e-mail address for Mr.Willig. My husband, John, was an Iron Worker at the WTC, and he wanted to be able to say something to him.
COL Responds: Sorry, we do not have any contact information for George Willig. Good luck with your search. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Jeff Gilbert
Posted: Friday, July 26, 2002
but i cant believe more people find off size cracks more annoying than grabbing slings. what is this, a sport climbing page? ;) jg jeffnjen.com
COL Responds: Maybe most of the respondents don't sport climb at all and the specter of grabbing the occasional sling doesn't faze them. It doesn't faze us and we rarely sport climb ;) Thanks for the note! Staff @ Climber Online!
people all around me!!!
From: Michael Stanton
Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2002
Hi guys, I must really suck 1) Jeff Smoot's climbingwashington.com 2) Dave (alpinedave.com) 3) Now Phil (yes, last name is Fortier). Does www.mountainwerks.org/cma suck that much? Jeez, I have great shots of Dreamer, bunch of other stuff. I'll get the Ice Cliff Glacier slides up in the next day or so. My site has been around a long time, I'd love to win your award. But I guess I'll make do with disgruntled mutterings instead...so long! --Michael ps - you forgot to mention the hilarious "where's Beckey?" feature of Phil's site.
could u help w/ this question?
Posted: Monday, June 17, 2002
Hi! Me and some friends have a dream of climbing K2. But we are trying to get any info we can to help us out. If you have anything you think will hep can you please send it to me. A gear list especially would be really helpful. Thank you for your time and we hope to hear from you soon.
Advertise & Military
From: Brian Mason
Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2002
Hi, We are doing an editorial report on Rock Climb for our July publication. We are Military Times (since 1947) We represent the US Military (Army, Air Force, Navy, and Marine Corp) covering stories that are important to military people who depend on us for weekly news. One of our sections is devoted to Life Style and recreational time. Each military person gets 30 days play time and the Government pays for it! I'd like to have your resources available for the military people as a choice to spend their recreational time in rock climb. When is a good time for us to discuss this issue? My number is 1-800-424-9335 x8909 Or www.militarycity.com Regards, Brian Mason Military Times Pasted below are additional info: We have 237,000 in circulation, but even more impressive is that 85% are paid! Our primary audience is between 18 & 34 years old (about 75% of our readership). Our circulation is ABC audited. Travel & Recreation: Through our “military times” and “decision times” newsprint, our advertisers reach every base in the US, plus 25,500 additional circulation to transitioning offices. These are prime candidates for Travel and Recreation. These prospects have Gov’t funding and there're using our service to choose a Travel Destination program. To reach hundreds of military bases through us your targeting readership is 85%. Are you interested in prime exposure to maximize your potential active military people? NOTE: Our readership exceeds a million a week and is extraordinary because we give our readers the news they need – its truth that's not always popular with the pentagon. In fact, Colin Powell during 1990 desert storm war, made a bold statement saying, "military people don't read the Washington Post to get the facts, they read Military Times". When your ready to discuss print and online advertising / sponsoring, please call me at 1-800-424-9335 x8909 Brian Mason Military Times
OFFER OF LEATHER GLOVES
Posted: Tuesday, May 28, 2002
BUZAGLO LOHR INTERNATIONAL 15/208,HAJI PURA DASKA ROAD, SIALKOT, PAKISTAN Tel: -+92+432+253590 Fax:-+92+432+253590 E.firstname.lastname@example.org Dear Sir, It is our understanding that you are interested in the importer of leather gloves and being bonafide manufacturer-cum- Exporters of all kinds of leather gloves having special production of MOTOR CYCLE GLOVES, CYCLE GLOVES, RIDING GLOVES, BATTING GLOVES, SUMMER GLOVES, MOTO CROSS GLOVES, DRIVING GLOVES, DRESS GLOVES, SKI GLOVES, GOLF GLOVES, GUN GLOVES. WEIGHT LIFTING GLOVES,LEATHER CHAP.etc for the last twenty years. Kindly allow us to send samples of your choice for your examine and possible supply order. Please be sure that you will appreciate the quality of gloves and certainly convince you to place an Order with our firm for mutual benefits. Await your favorable reply by return e-mail, with best regards, Very truly yours, Javed Hussain
I know that Geek
From: Simon Balls
Posted: Monday, April 08, 2002
Dudes at COL- I was about send this particularly hienous boulder problem at my local climbing gym when that guy in your Picture of the Week came traversing by, grunting and sweating and mumbling to himself about "the French and their cheese". As he went by me, he reached down and wiped a booger on the mono-doit undercling I was about to use. It was no doubt the hardest move he made all day. Freak. I told the gym manager about it and he said he was keeping his eye on him. Rumor is he kicked some guy in the back a couple of weeks ago. P.S. How a few more free stickers? They look really cool on my mom's minivan. Simon from Doylestown
From: Rick Henning
Posted: Thursday, March 21, 2002
FYI, for all you climbers out there. Believe it or not! Rock Climbing can be found on the beautiful island of Oahu. So, next time you plan a vacation to get away from the cold winters of the mainland and decide to visit, I can provide the site location.
Posted: Thursday, January 17, 2002
Im after 2 pairs of those Wall suckers, so u can climb walls easily. Do you know where i can obtain a pair for my feet and a pair for my hands?
COL Responds: Sorry, but no. Good luck. Staff @ Climber Online!
Thanks for the decals
From: Phil Shepard
Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2001
Got the decals you sent. Thanks a lot. I'll give a bunch of these out to my friends at the rock gym. The big wall gloves review was fantastic. I'll be sure to get a pair for our next adventure ;)
COL Responds: Glad you enjoyed the decals. Staff @ Climber Online!
On more thing... CUBA!
From: Sam Johnson
Posted: Saturday, November 24, 2001
That is a great web site (www.cubaclimbing.com). Thanks for doing the review. I hope to see some more info on that site in the near future! I'll be checking back often. Again, Climber Online is awesome!
COL Responds: Glad you enjoyed it. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Sam Johnson
Posted: Saturday, November 24, 2001
Love your web site! I just made it one of my favorite bookmarks. Keep up the great work. How about getting some coverage of New Hampshire climbing... especially the ICE!
Where is Yago?
Posted: Friday, October 12, 2001
Where is Yago?
COL Responds: We don't know. Staff @ Climber Online!
Climbing in Lake Powell area?
Posted: Wednesday, October 03, 2001
Anyone out there ever here of any bolts around the shores of lake powell... that they wouldnt mind shareing? Thanks.
COL Responds: Lake Powell has lots of climbing. Get a boat and find it. Good luck. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: John Bowman
Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2001
My latest observation of unsafe use of trad equipment - the latest in a long series - was at Sphinx Rock last week, & it finally prompted me to write. Two climbers set a toprope on Sphinx Crack. I figured, they're working on a 5.13, they probably know their way around setting up an anchor. Wrong. Oh, they had 4 pieces, all right. A probably decent upside down #2 Tri-cam, one bomber #2 Camalot, & two other cams, each with at least 1-2 cams tipped out & not holding anything. They tied it all together with a cordelette, but didn't tie a figure-eight knot in the end using all the strands! This left potential for major shock loading. When I left, they were taking huge gorilla swings falling from the first moves, whooping & hollering as their rope sawed back & forth at the top of the rock. They had lengthened the anchor sling over the side, all right, but the huge swings they were taking were still whipsawing their rope. They were oblivious to any problems. Please, PLEASE - if you're fresh out of the gym or just hesitant to admit you aren't experienced building anchors with your own gear, buy Climbing Anchors & More Climbing Anchors by John Long & apply what you learn. Cams are great and have opened up climbing to thousands at levels of difficulty they couldn't have approached using hexcentrics & stoppers only. Problem is, even cams take practice, & not every placement is automatically good! Learn proper use of a cordelette, & while you're at it, read Self Rescue & practice what's shown. One major accident and it'll be too late - climbing can kill you before you know anything has happened. You owe it to yourself, your partner, & those that love you to learn your craft. By the way, what the hell does the choice on your survey on unsafe climbers mean that says, "The strong will survive?" That's a stupid attitude. If your particular brand of sport involves defying or courting death, do everyone a favor & be pure about it - go free soloing and don't tell anyone about it.
COL Responds: That's a scary situation that the top-ropers put themselves into. Next time, say something to them. Save a life. Oh, and we have stupid attitudes. Ta ta. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Medric Magann
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2001
This is great. I thought most climbers were too lazy to put something like this together. Well,maybe not lazy, but out and about too much. That guys story on Devils Tower was cool. I've been down to the Tower a lot over the years. YES!!!! It is that crowded. This site needs a message board. All of climberdom needs a good message board. That McNamara guy at Supertopo has one, but he deletes cuss words and won't allow open flames. How feeble !
COL Responds:Thanks for the feedback! Warren did a great job on the trip report (Devil's Tower, Durrance Route, 05/01). Be sure to send him an email if you get the opportunity. His email address is attached to the article. We actually had an online survey to feel out the COL readership about having a Climber Online message board. The vote was like 50/50, though the survey was probably done over a year ago. Maybe we should run the survey again? Chris Mac is running a for-profit web site and he provides a lot of great information for free. I can understand his censorship issues (e.g. loss of sponsorship, loss of traffic, etc.). Whereas Climber Online pretty much has no one to answer to. It's purely a hobby site originally intended to showcase some web development talents, but has kind of morphed into it's own entity. MM, you surely give us some food for thought. Thanks again! Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Michael Garrison
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2001
I really enjoy your site and I have it set as my
desktop inside Lotus Notes.
While I have other climbing web sites that I frequently visit yours seems to be the one that is updated on a regular basis.
Your gear list on the Devils Tower trip included a camera, how about posting so pics.
Keep up the good work.
COL Responds:Thanks for the compliments. We truly appreciate them. With regards to Devil's Tower trip report images, we send an email to the author (Warren) asking if he'd like to add pictures. We're just waiting for a reply. Hopefully we'll be able to get a few soon. Thanks again! Staff @ Climber Online!
COL site of the week desired
From: Darrell Weaver
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2001
Dear Climber Online, We are a Utah based company dedicated to all aspects of the climbing world. We would be very interested in discussing our company with you, please contact me at your convenience. Climb High! Darrell Weaver C# 801.319.5449 email@example.com ________________________ The following is a description of our company and its accomplishments. Pondaray is the publisher of exclusive photographic imagery including outdoor sports, natural history, mountaineering and ethnographic subjects. This elite content is utilized to develop various consumer products including graphic note cards; computer mouse pad/screensaver accessories, decorative wall posters and adventure sports video titles. These fine products are available through high-end locations including LL Bean, Eastern Mountain Sports, the American Museum of Natural History and other retailers nationwide as well as on-line at http://www.pondaray.com. The Company makes donations from product sales to assist selected environmental and educational programs." You may edit the text as you see fit for placement on various 'cross-link' websites.
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2001
Hi I just found your site for the first time today, and I generally think it is really cool... however I find the title of the little pop-up box asking people to donate blood (a worthy cause) really tasteless. Do you really believe that nuking anyone is a good idea, especially since a nuclear weapon can hardly target a single individual or group? I sincerely hope that people will use Tuesday's events to reflect on some of the atrocities the world over instead of using it to condone violence, racism, and general arrogance in the name of the USA...
COL Responds: Well Liz, while you make salient points you must understand that COL is an East Coast operation and WE ALL HAVE CONNECTIONS TO PEOPLE WHO WERE IN THE WORLD TRADE CENTERS AT THE TIME OF THE ATTACK. SOME ARE STILL MISSING. Please don't take the phrase "NUKE ALL TERRORISTS NOW" as a literal statement. We overreacted and you certainly did too. We changed the header of the file so you can sleep at night. Is the "Liz is Tight" pitch (A5) on Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Cap have anything to do with all Liz's? OOPS. We took that title literally. Have a good whatever. And by the way, you felt strongly enough to point out our overstatement, yet you were cowardly enough NOT to leave your email address or last name. Take a good look in the mirror next time you feel strongly about anything. Hugs and kisses. Staff @ Climber Online!
Abseil Rope Failure
From: John Ash
Posted: Friday, August 31, 2001
Hi there We are a commercial cave rafting company operating out of Waitomo Caves New Zealand. As a part of our annual safety review, we are reassessing single rope (bottom belayed) abseil/rappel systems versus systems backed up with a second rope and self-belay device. Has anyone out there got any statistics or stories concerning the failure of abseil/rappel ropes due to manufacturing faults? (We all know that there are lots of other ways/reasons for ropes to break). Looking forward to your feedback Kia ora John Ash
COL Responds: We're almost 100% sure that no commercially made climbing rope has failed because of manufacturing defects in the last 20 years. Evidence of this is that all the old, major rope manufacturers are still in business (Edelrid, Edelweiss, Mammut, Blue Water, Maxium, Beal, etc.). That's not to say that accessory cord, which often has well marked splices some where on the spool, has failed because of a non-homogeneous core. This still falls into the category of pilot error. You might want to check out the following sites for better information. Good luck! Staff @ Climber Online!
Title: Beal Ropes
Phone: None Listed
Phone: None Listed
Title: Roca Ropes
Phone: None Listed
Phone: (770) 834-7515
Title: BlueWater the Climbing Company
Phone: (800) 533-7673 Fax: (404) 834-7515
Title: Esprit Ropes
Title: New England Ropes / MAXIM Ropes
Phone: (800) 333-6679
From: cam burns
Posted: Monday, August 20, 2001
Who are you guys? Are you associated with the magaine CLIMBER?
COL Responds: Cam (Great Name for a Climber!)- We're a motley crew of wannabe climbers who work too much and don't climb enough. We get contributions from climbers from all over the world. One day we'll actually put a Climber Online Staff page together to let the world know how out of shape all of us really are. Isn't beer a food group? We're not affiliated with anything except sloth. Thanks for your inquiry. Staff @ Climber Online!
Site of the week submission
From: Scott Harder
Posted: Monday, August 06, 2001
Non-commercial site - www.nwog.org Thanks for your consideration!
COL Responds: Scott, we'll certainly take a look at the web site. Thanks for the note! Staff @ Climber Online!
Posted: Saturday, August 04, 2001
http://www.AlaskanAlpineClub.org http://www.AlaskaStories.com Climb on... Doug
COL Responds: We'll add these this week (08/20/01). Thanks! BTW, anyone can add links to the COL Link List database. Staff @ Climber Online!
Great Trip Report
From: Mark Carroll
Posted: Tuesday, July 24, 2001
Yo! Great write-up of team-COL's ascent (and descent) of the Prow. Nicely done Nancy, Greg, and AOC!
COL Responds: Thanks for the comments! See you on Labyrinth Wall Direct (V 5.7 A4) this summer ;) Staff @ Climber Online!
From: stewart robinson
Posted: Tuesday, July 24, 2001
have you ever heard of robot cams... someone said they are a company from the somewhere in the former soviet union, but that they had cams cheap.... if so how can you order them are are they reliable....
COL Responds: Unfortunately, we have never heard of 'Robot Cams'. If anyone wants to send us a couple, we'll be happy to do a review ;) Good luck on your search. Staff @ Climber Online!
Climbing in France
Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2001
I have been looking for a climbing guide in the Nice area of France without much luck. Any recommendations of guides or places to find one?
COL Responds: Sounds like a great trip you have planned. My guess is that you'll want to pick up a local guidebook while over there. I've never been there but here are some links that *might* be of some help. You may need to know some French language to figure it all out: Title: Rock climbing in France URL: http://www.ffme.fr/cosiroc/ , Title: Grimp'Azur URL: http://www.multimania.com/grimppg/ , Title: Direttissima.com URL: http://www.direttissima.com/ , Title: Alpinus.fr.fm URL: http://www.chez.com/alpinus/ . Good luck! Staff @ Climber Online!
UIIA route ratings
From: Todd B Herman
Posted: Monday, June 25, 2001
I am looking for a resource on the rating of routes. Is the UIIA the standard? If so, where do find the description of the ratings...? Thank you.TBH
COL Responds: The UIAA isn't the only climb rating system used. Check out the following two links for more information of ratings: http://www.rockfax.com/information/bgrades.html & http://www.rockfax.com/information/grades.html Have fun! Staff @ Climber Online!
From: jacky aspen
Posted: Tuesday, June 12, 2001
please add me to your email system!
COL Responds: Jacky, we added you. Anyone can add or remove their own email address to the Climber Online email list by going to the COL home page and submitting their email address in the appropriate box on the lower right side of the page. Staff @ Climber Online!
The Silent Partner
From: Richard M. Wright
Posted: Monday, June 11, 2001
My experience with The Silent Partner was not especially different from that described here at COL. However, I would add the following caution to anyone wishing to try this unit. The breaking is activated by a centrifugal chuck that can create a good hard stop when fully activated. However, if the fall is not very sharp, sharp enough to throw the chucks, then The Silent Partner just keeps spinning. A "soft" fall will not activate the chucks. So if you anticipate falling while using TSP, make sure the fall you take is good hard fall, not exactly what most of do soloing. RMW
COL Responds: Richard, thanks for your feedback! We had a couple of rope burned hands when testing the SP during the initial intentional falls. It was difficult not to grab the rope when jumping off a ledge. This caused the hub to not spin fast enough to lock. We got burned hands and hit our backup knot. Overall, we loved the Silent Partner for rope-soloing on the lead. For unexpected falls, it works at least as good as a 'live' belayer. Staff @ Climber Online!
Rock climbing Iowa
From: Brian Richman
Posted: Tuesday, June 05, 2001
In your COL Site of the Week (02/05/01), you mentioned that there are a bunch of good climbing areas in Iowa. I'm moving from California to Iowa later this summer (long story) and would love to know where they are, what types of climbs, whether they're bolted and any other info you might have. Thanks very much to anybody who can provide some 411.
COL Responds: It must be an interesting & long story at least ;) Anyway here are two web sites that can give you information on the climbing in Iowa: http://www.angelfire.com/ia/mwendling/vvert.htm & http://www.bnbmountaineering.com/ Good luck and have fun. At least you're not too far from Devil's Tower and the Front Range. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: J. Lukas
Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2001
Is there any truth to the rumor that the staff at COL pooled their resources and purchased a sizable portion of Einstein's brain? If so, can I see it?
COL Responds: We actually broke into the Princeton University biology labs and stole a big hunk of it. Unfortunately, we drank too much beer, left it on the kitchen table and the dogs ate it. Easy come, easy go. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Colby Morrow
Posted: Sunday, April 15, 2001
I was wondering, if you had any stickers you could send me to put on my gear to advertise your suff? I was also wondering if you could send me a poster? If you could that would be great!!!! My address is P.O. box 984 Laporte Co. 80535. Thanx, Colby
COL Responds: Well, you could send a self addressed & stamped envelope to us and we'll throw a few in the mail to you. As far as posters go, we could get a naked group shot of the COL staff and make that into a poster. We're don't believe these would be too popular. Thanks for the note. Staff @ Climber Online!
hallo to everyone from romania
From: mihai tamas
Posted: Saturday, April 14, 2001
COL Responds: Right back at ya. Staff @ Climber Online!
New listing for COL"NewsGroups"
From: Rob Means
Posted: Wednesday, April 11, 2001
http://mtncommunity.org Supporting photos, login and "public" access, and personalized views. population former "Views from the top", "Rec.Climbing.useful" discussion group
COL Responds: We added the mtncommunity.org site to the COL Link list, under 'message boards/forums'. Thanks for the information. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Jeff T.
Posted: Thursday, April 05, 2001
I have to say the review of the takeover of Mountainzone by Quokka was...optimistic...in the very least. Not only did they remove all links to the entertaining and informative Mountainzone forums, replacing them with links to their own milktoast forums where climbers aren't even allowed to swear or make any negative statements regarding Quokka, they are now so financially destitute they can't even honor their commitment to Eric Simonson's expedition to search for the remains of Andrew Irvine. Yes, we received the expected treatment at the hands of the monolithic corporation, but the mitigating financial boost to the Mountainzone website failed to materialize. Both distant and recent visits to the 'Zone', have convinced me that, sadly, the only thing Quokka accomplished with their takeover was to kill off the best climbing site on the web.
COL Responds: After re-reading the review, we agree that is was optimistic. But the review was done in June 2000 during a period of corporate takeovers sweeping through all sectors of business. About the only warm and fuzzy feeling we can take away from all of this is that Quokka stock is hovering around $0.06/share, down from a high of $17/share. They killed themselves. Thanks for the comments and thanks for stopping by Climber Online. Staff @ Climber Online!
Rock climbing image required
From: Karen Stasukaitis
Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2001
WE urgently require a high resolution rockclimbing image to use during the 14 day Easter show in Australia on a sign to epitomise Sports & Adventure - the signs are long and skinny, We need to write the words: "Sports & Adventure" over the picture. Ideally we would like to use a picture of a climber scaling or hanging from a rock face - The dimensions of the signs to be produced are: 10.5m wide x 1.28m high and 9.94m wide x 1m high. These are quite urgent . Can you please let me know if you have anything we can use that might be appropriate and also the cost. Sincerely, Karen Stasukaitis
COL Responds: Sorry for the tardy response. We're not in the business of developing high resolution climbing images. Gary Clark of NAClassics.com has some great images that he might want to share. You can email him at: firstname.lastname@example.org You can also try: Title: Greg Epperson Rock Prints URL: http://www.gregepperson.com/ -- Staff @ Climber Online!
Web site of week?
From: Gary Clark
Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2001
Hi, I just discovered your site, and will be using it. I wondered if you were aware of my site, naclassics.com. It has information about classic climbs on the NA continent. Although the emphasis is photos, there are about 100 trip reports and lots of original route descriptions and topos. Check it out if you haven't already - maybe you'll think it worthy of "site of the week" honors. The only ad on the site is my own, for an expanded version with high-resolution photos on CD-ROM. No sponsors, no banners or pop-ups, etc. I'm always looking for nominations for more routes to add to the collection - I'm working with some Eastern climbers to get material for the neglected right half of the continent.
COL Responds: You have a great site and we have it in the COL Link List database. You did some impressive semi-early ascents of the NW Face of Half Dome and the Nose. Funny, We did the same climbs almost exactly fourteen years after you did your ascents (1992 & 1994). Your site is certainly a viable candidate for Site of the Week honors and will be added to our 'watch list'. My guess is that you now have a very good chance of getting SotW because many of the COL staff have plans in Yosemite this summer and will reference your site and maybe your CD for details. Thanks for dropping us the note! Staff @ Climber Online!
site of the week
From: Charles Vernon
Posted: Wednesday, February 28, 2001
Cool site! Thanks for naming climbingboulder the site of the week (I contribute a lot of routes to that site). I wanted to send you a recommendation for this week's site. Have you ever seen Bill Wright's site? (www.wwwright.com) If you have, I can't believe it hasn't won site of the week yet! I' ve looked at nearly all the sites that have won awards here, and Bill's is hands down as good as any site on the web, right up there with the Yosemite Rock Page, Climbingboulder, Dawn's site, etc. Bill climbs a lot, and seems to write a trip report about nearly every climb he does. There is an incredible number and variety of TRs on his website. Most are from Yosemite, Colorado (especially Eldo), and Utah. With some people this kind of rambling on might get old real quick, but what really makes you want to read these is his great sense of humor about evey climbing experience he has. A few are downright goofy (such as Pervertical Sancturary, under 1996 climbs), but most are pretty serious and exciting as well as funny. He has some great long TRs on some classic Yosemite climbs such as Half Dome, the Nose, Astroman, etc. The other great quality to the TRs is that Bill really has an eye for the precient moments that tend to occur, particularly on longer or more memorable climbs. He climbs (leads 5.10 trad, follows 5.11) hard enough to do most classics in most areas, but is certainly at a level where most people can identify with what he is saying. Take this excerpt from a TR on the Senic Cruise (Black Canyon of the Gunnison): "I slumped onto the ledge and removed my painful shoes. It was a little before 2 pm and we took a 45 minute rest on this ledge.... We talked about how Earl Wiggins did the second free ascent of the Cruise as an unroped solo in an hour and a half. At this point in the climb that was a mind-blowing thought. We agreed that Wiggins wasn't just ten times better than us, but 3000 times better than us, because we reasoned, we'd have to be 3000 times better to free solo this route." Also, his description of leading the infamous pegmatitie traverse pitch (runout 5.10) on the Scenic Cruise is classic climbing writing. And almost all his TRs are this good. Other good ones to check out (besides the Yosemite TRs) are the Naked Edge, D7, Shelf Road, Dunn Route (under "Desert Towers") and many others. He also has some really good pictures, and other interesting sections such as Colorado Speed Climbing, Colorado Wide Crack Routes, etc. Finally--Bill has climbed with some well-known climbers, including rec.climbing personalities such as Lord Slime and Bruce Bailey, and otehr ssuch as Eric Winkleman and Hans Florine, which gives some of his TRs an added level of interest. I saw that you had George Bell's Cirque of the Unclimbables Guide as a previous award winner--have you ever looked at his Long's Peak page? That's a great one, too.
COL Responds: Bill Wright's site has been recommended two times this week directly because of Climbing Boulder winning the COL Site of the Week. At this point, you can probably count on Bill's site getting the COL Site of the Week award either next week or soon after. Thanks a lot for your input! Keep climbing the Diamond ;) Staff @ Climber Online!
International Mt. Damavand (5671 m) Ascent
From: Mohsen Aghajani
Posted: Tuesday, February 13, 2001
Dear Friends, On the occasion of naming year 2001, " Year of Dialogue Among Civilizations" as well as " Year of Visiting Iran" Araz Adventure Tours company with the cooperation of the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation, organizes: International Mt. Damavand (5671 m) Ascent 14th June ~ 21st 2001 In this regard, we have invited all Mountaineering Federations, Alpine Clubs and Mountaineers of the world to participate in this Ascent. Araz would like to take this opportunity to invite you to participate in this memorable program. In order to get more information about this event please visit our site at www.araz.org. Should you need further information, please do not hesitate to contact us. We look forward to meeting you in this program. Yours sincerely, Mohsen Aghajani Managing Director, Araz Adventure Tours Co. ---------------------------------- Tel: +98 (21) 769292 Fax: + 98 (21) 7509678 Add: No. 1, North Bahar St., Tehran 15648 IRAN P.O.Box: 15745-335
COL Responds: Thanks for the notification. We added your listing to the COL Link List database. Let us know if you want to change it. Staff @ Climber Online!
Climbing in Florida
Posted: Monday, February 05, 2001
Thanks COL for making Flatliners the site of the week. I haven't visited COL for quite a while and I guess, timing is everything. I'm preparing to move back to Florida and Flatliners is an excellent resource for climbing in the Southeast. I have already bookmarked the site and I will visit it frequently as I get back into the climbing scene in Florida. I'll have to work out at Vertical Ventures climbing gym, in Tampa. They have a great bouldering area. Thanks COL for keeping me informed!!!
COL Responds: Thanks for the email! Have fun in Florida. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Marco Saraceno
Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2001
Are you interested on a banner exchange with our web store? www.jumarnet.com Thanks
COL Responds: Marco, Climber Online wants to maintain a relatively commercial free presence on the world wide web. We *do* put linked ad boxes when content is given to COL. Right now the trip report 'Run For Cover' By Chris Van Leuven is an example of this. Boulderdash Magazine (www.boulderdashmag.com) was very helpful with providing the text and images. Clif Bar (www.clifbar.com) sponsored Chris on his trip, so we added that ad also. They will leave the main page once the article rotates into the archives. Although, the ads will remain with the article for all eternity, or at least a million years. BTW, we do have your link in the COL link list database. Thanks for the note! Staff @ Climber Online!
climbingwashington.com website review
From: Scott Presho
Posted: Tuesday, January 09, 2001
In your review of climbingwashington.com, you state that Washington State doesn't have nay true big wall climbing. A little bit of reesearch would have shown you that this is untrue. The North Norwegian Buttress on Mt Index and the North face of Mt Baring are grade six big wall climbs that far exceed the climbing on the Grand Wall at Squamish. While it is only a grade 5, the east face of Liberty Bell has two hard aid routes that provide every bit the ambeince of big wall climbing.
COL Responds: Scott, we stand corrected. Thanks for the notification. The article has been updated. Staff @ Climber Online!
George Bell's Cirque of the Unclimbables
From: Tom Shores
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2001
I can't seem to find George Bell's website anymore. In November it was your site of the week. Now the link seems to be broken. Can you help me find it? Thanks!
COL Responds: Tom, Geocities changed their paths. George's Crique of the Unclimbables site is now at http://www.geocities.com/gibell.geo/cirque/index.html. Thanks for pointing that out. We changed it on COL, In both the database and in the Site of the Week article. We expect other Geocities site will experience the same evolution. Thanks again! Staff @ Climber Online!
What are my rights?
From: Darren Porter
Posted: Thursday, December 28, 2000
Recently I purchased a computer and they financed me through the company that they use. While trying to contact the computer company for Tech Support I find out that the company has gone bankrupt. I have no Tech Support which leaves me with a computer that I DO want but it is not working properly and I do have a warrentee of 90 days after purchase. My 90 days are about up and I have not been able to contact the company due to their finacial state. I have however contacted the finance company and they are going to send me some kind of paper work. IF the computer company does not stand behind their agreement to give Tech Support do I have any rights? And if so what are they? I am paying for something that so far they have not been able to supply. I have a disfunctional computer that I am paying for and my 90 days are about up. I was also offered an extended warrantee that I did not have to agree to untill my 90 days were up so where does that leave that? Thank you for any advice you can give me on this situation.
COL Responds: We're not a computer company, but here is some advice: 1. If you bought the computer from a local manufacturer, not a Dell nor Gateway nor IBM, contact the local Better Business Bureau (http://www.bbb.org/) and notify them of the problem. Tell them your situation. They might go to bat for you with their lawyers. Most likely, other irate customers of this customers have already contacted them regarding similar issues. 2. Contact a local attorney who deals with business-to-customer problems. Yellow pages or a friends' advice is good. Don't pay them anything until you get the details. It might not be worth your time to go this route. You might have paid $1200 for the system and the lawyer might want that much to retain his/her services. 3. Do some research on the corporation who sold you the computer. Is it a corporation, a LLP, a LLC or sole-proprietorship? You might be able to sue the owner(s) for breech of contract and using the corporate veil as an alter-ego. Contact the lawyer regarding this. It can get very messy, but the lawyer might take the lawsuit on a 50/50 deal with no money up front. Good luck and we're sorry to hear of this problem. Staff @ Climber Online!
rock climbing hystory
From: naomi laliberte
Posted: Monday, December 18, 2000
I would like to known if you can give me an information about any site that talking on the history of rock climbing
COL Responds: We (Climber Online) have no specific sites in our database matching 'rock climbing history'. But we do have 21 sites matching 'history'. Try this link. Try searching through these sites. You might find what you are looking for. There are a few book dealers who would be happy to sell you a related book on the subject. Good luck! Staff @ Climber Online!
LOOKING FOR A POSSIBLE GIFT
From: TOM HINE
Posted: Friday, December 15, 2000
I AM WONDERING IF YOU COULD HELP ME OUT IN GETTING A GIFT FOR MY BROTHER. I WAS THINKING THE GIFT WOULD BE A TRIP TO A ROCK CLIMBING PLACE AND CLIMB FOR THE DAY. IF YOU CAN HELP ME OUT PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANKS !
COL Responds: We don't know where your brother lives, but we have 265 listings for 'Guides' and 'Schools/Instruction' in our Climber Online Link List database. Our suggestion is for you to search the database in the region your brother lives and in the two categories you would be most interested in ('Instruction/Schools' and 'Guides'). Then contact a few of the organizations for pricing and availability. You will not find too many rock climbing schools in business for outdoor instruction in New Hampshire during the winter. Good luck and let us know if we can help out in any other way. Happy holidays! Staff @ Climber Online!
Site of the Week
From: Jeff Smoot
Posted: Monday, December 04, 2000
Thanks for your glowing review of my website. I hope I can make people believe the hype by keeping the website current and interesting. Thanks to Kris Stanton for her technical expertise. It would have been impossible, or at least not very good, without her efforts. Thanks also to everyone who has contributed so far. Keep it coming! (Geez, this is starting to sound like an acceptance speech . . .)
COL Responds: Jeff, we really liked your site and were completely surprised to see it progress so quickly. One thing; we did see the picture of you (circa mid-80's) following a 5.8 wearing Chouinard Canyons ;) Keep up the good work on the site and with your guidebooks! Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Ralf A. Fritzinger
Posted: Monday, December 04, 2000
I want to send you a pic of my hometrainingwall. How can I get it to you,I do not find a Emailadress.
COL Responds: Send it to 'email@example.com' and we'll make it our new image of the month. Let us know where the image is and what it is about. Thanks! Staff @ Climber Online!
Update your link!
From: George Bell
Posted: Tuesday, November 14, 2000
I just found this site and it looks really good. I noticed you already have links to my home page and Cirque of the Unclimbables guide. However, your link to the guide is old. Right now it get's redirected, but it should be: http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/cirque/ Keep up the good work! -George
COL Responds: George, Thanks for the update! Feel free to create your own account on the COL Link List. You can re-add your home climbing page and the guide page with your own words, etc. Just let us know if you do this and we will delete the old listing(s). BTW, both sites are excellent! Staff @ Climber Online!
Jeff Smoot's site
From: Michael Stanton
Posted: Thursday, November 02, 2000
Hi all! My wife and I have worked with Jeff Smoot to drag pictures and stories out of his garage for an awesome web site. Visit http://www.climbingwashington.com. Site o' the week? :)
COL Responds: Thanks for the new site notification! The site certainly has the attributes to be a COL Site of the Week. We added it to the COL Link List. You might want to make sure the listing reflects the site profile accurately. Thanks again! Staff @ Climber Online!
Site of the week
From: Ross Jensen
Posted: Monday, October 30, 2000
What are the requirements for site of the week? Ross http://www.adventurejunkie.com
COL Responds: You just need a climbing related web site to qualify and your site looks great! One of the other COL staff added your site a while back to the COL Link List and mentioned that it could easily be a Site of the Week award winner. As most things happen around here, we lost track of it and it hasn't popped up on our RADAR. Now that you reminded me of it, I'll be nominating it for Site of the Week for next week. The COL staff will take a quick look and cast their votes for next week's winner. Thanks for the reminder! BTW, I'm looking forward to your next big wall (column) trip report and images! We'd love to publish one of your trip reports on COL. Of course we would put a 110 x 60 px image link to your site on the front page of COL. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Bill Nickerson
Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2000
Cool, glad I stumbled in !
COL Responds: Thanks and we received your request for COL decals, they are on their way! Staff @ Climber Online!
col site in general
Posted: Thursday, September 28, 2000
Great site! The Yosemite TR with Kolorado Ken was hilarious! Looking forward to the next one! Cheers Cameron
Silent Partner TopRope
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2000
How can the device rate so well if the reports say it top-ropes poorly? I want to buy the Silent Partner to perform multi-pitch solos, which include seconding the pitch (ie. toproping). Can anyone please advise how to best follow, aside from using ascenders? Has anyone tried tying a bunch of gear or duct-taping the line, to facilitate a smooth clove hitch slippage? Thanks! DHP.
COL Responds: We really liked the Silent Partner for lead rope-soloing. It was poor for following your own leads, though. Following traverses are hell. You'll need to hand feed the rope through the running clove-hitch with one or two hands. You will probably be better off simply tying knots while following your free climbing lead or use jugs. Using the Soloist or Solo-aid (both by Wren Industries, as is the Silent Partner) will cause similar problems and the Soloist has the scary possibility of not locking up in an inverted fall! So you have to tie knots anyway. Top-roping with the SP was problematic. We had difficulty dialing in the correct amount of weight to tie onto the bottom of the rope. Here is a little matrix of how the SP and other methods perform (1=sucks, 10=great - almost as good as having a belayer):
4 (be careful!)
7 (back it up!)
Please let us know if you find a good way to follow pitches (free) while using the SP. Thanks for contacting us!
dean potter video
From: bob howard
Posted: Wednesday, September 13, 2000
where can i buy a video of dean potter climbing el capitan solo? thanks! bob
COL Responds: Bob, it appears to us that the video (Masters of Stone 5) is still in production. Here is the URL to Eric Perlman Productions: http://www.climbnet.com/epp/ Good luck and write a review for us after you get the video and view it a few times ;)
From: Bob Hicken
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2000
Your web page is cool! Check out mine www.xmission.com/~rhicken/ www.killerclimbs.com
COL Responds: Nice site, Bob! It's in the COL Link List. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Mark Staples
Posted: Friday, August 25, 2000
Fabio, I still laughing after reading your account of Kolorado Ken!!! I was in Camp 4 for the first week of June by myself, and I climbed a little with Ken. He was great, and his nickname became Offwidth Ken. He took me up a chimmney near Reeds, and you should have seen it!!!! I never though he would finish the climb as I belayed him.....what I didn't know until I climbed up to the belay was that he kept traversing 15-20 feet into the chimmney to collect gear that had been dropped. He must have done that half a dozen times at least as he cliimbed the chimmney. I couldn't believe it! and you should have heard the life in his voice as he told me how being in a chimmney like that is pure heaven!!! I would have to thank Ken for taking the time to coach me on how to climb chimmneys and how to do it on lead. Being from Virginia, I don't get many chances to climb chimmneys, but after climbing with Ken, I found a 5.8 chimmney at the New River Gorge that I would have never touched if it hadn't been for Kolorado Ken!
TR and?or Beta on Katahdin
From: Rob Means
Posted: Friday, August 25, 2000
I'm looking for rock climbing Beta on Katahdin in Maine. So far I've found a list of climbs but little detail. There are some helpfull photos of a little of the terrain in "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England". I may be making this a project, but I'll have to make more trips in before making that decision.
COL Responds: Rob, Either 'Climbing' or 'Rock & Ice' had an article about the alpine rock routes on Katahdin within the past year. It was the most information I've seen on climbing in Baxter State Park. Basically there is one prominent ridge route with variations (5.5, 5.7, 5.9, 5.10+). Let us know how things work out. Staff @ Climber Online!
From: Cooper Caillier
Posted: Thursday, August 24, 2000
I E-Mailed you a letter approximately one month or so ago showing my interest in being a correspondent. I just thought I would check back in with you to show my desire to write articles for your website. I leave in Eastern Pennsylvania and have access to much of the news that is unheard of simply because it is the East Coast. Please let me know of anything i can do to help you guys out. and keep cranking Cooper C
COL Responds: Cooper, We're always looking for stories, trip reports, area reports, etc. For some reason I can not find your original email in our database. Looks like I'll have to dive into the code and do a little debugging ;) PLEASE send us articles of climbing that YOU find interesting. Eastern PA is peppered with high quality, small crags. We've been considering articles on Haycock Mountain bouldering, Lehigh Valley climbing, Livzey Rock history and other places. Feel free to jump right in and do a piece on anything. Images are always welcome with any article. We can scan your images and send back the originals or accept your digital image files via email. Thanks a lot and we're looking forward to hearing from you soon! Staff @ Climber Online!
Yosemite Trip Report Part I
From: Fabio Gutierrez
Posted: Wednesday, August 16, 2000
(Careful now, this one's long. And beware --> not necessarily in chronological order) ***********************************************************************************************
My friends! The rumors of my death at the hands of the stone have been greatly exaggerated. Verily there was suffering, injury, even death on highway 120 -- the Valley is a wild place, and sometimes she must take a life. At times we were sunburned, dehydrated, airborne, scared shitless, crying sad, chaffed, cold, stiff and sore (use your imagination), felons, and drunk (wonder if that had anything to do with the others??). And I wouldn't trade any of it for the world. We suffered through record heat and were literally baked on the rock, me with 3rd degree burns on top of 3rd degree burns. "No thanks Chris, I don't need any sun block today. We'll climb fast." We met colorful people, ate more colorful food and saw much wildlife -- coyotes, 5-year-old-child-killing deer, a wolf, a marmot, and a bear cub.
Fabio: "Hey Chris, check it out, a bear cub!"
Chris: "Cool, let me get a picture."
Fabio: "Where's momma?"
Chris: "Hmmmm, I don't know." Fabio:" Uh.. let's get the f@!% out of here!"
So, without further ado, let's get started! After Six (5.6) or After Seven (5.8)...........Beers?
Our first attempts at climbing were way-layed by some unforgiving Burger King E.coli special that Chris had on the way to the Valley, which left his intestines somewhat drained. But by Monday we were on the rock. Being our first day, and Chris's very first time at the granite crags, we decided to tackle some easier routes which would allow us to acclimate to the delicate foot work necessary on valley climbs. I decided to jump on After Seven, an enjoyable 5.8 right off the trail, and then to follow on up Manure Pile Buttress on After Six (5.6) a cruiser route. After Seven proved to be a little more difficult than I remembered --> I was confused and shaken when the protection ran out, and I had to make a few face moves to regain the crack up above. Only I couldn't see where it continued above. Right or left? "Awww, poor baby," I said to myself. "Just climb it, you wussy" (My internal dialogue is not always constructive, but it seems to work.) So after a sit I did. Problem was we had two people ahead of us and three behind us. The leader ahead reeked of alcohol, and Chris had seen him and his partner toking up on the ground. His partner was some valley local boulderer, about 18 yrs old, and had no idea about multi-pitch climbing. The leader behind us was belaying his team with a combination of hip belays and munter hitches, and had no clue how to constructively talk to his female partner in an encouraging manner. The third person in their team they had just met the day before. Sketchy group that.
So with all of this going on Chris and I cruised the route. Thoroughly enjoyable, especially the last pitch, where you pull up onto the table top on top of manure pile. I was a little tense on the fourth pitch, where the pro runs out and you have to move onto 5.5 face holds. Somehow I missed the 5.3 section and got on the 5.5. It wasn't bad until 15 ft up when I popped in a #5 HB, climbed 5ft above, and watched it pull out. Oh well. Easy climbing, fantastic views from 6-700ft up, and great weather.
Ken was a hardman from Boulder. He had a lean build and an easy manner, standing about 5'8". His grizzled features surrendered themselves to round, baby blue eyes that had all of the energy and excitement of a five year-old on Christmas morning. Ken would be in Site 3 with us at Camp 4 for our entire stay. "You know, every 4-5 years or so, I get my finances together and take about 6 mos to a year off. Sometimes it goes to 2 years. But you gotta go back sometime, can't let everything fall to shit, knowwhattamean?" Ken wore the same t-shirt the whole time he was there, until his rest day. It was white (or rather was ply white at some time in 1976) and had the picture of a big heart, with two cartoon Dalmatian pups rubbing heads. In neat cursive above their heads read "Puppy Love." 'Nuff said. "10a offwidths, those are my favorite. Yeah, once I had a girl. Oooh, she was a beauty. Taught her how to climb. I took her up 65 10a offwidths at Eldo [Eldorado Canyon] and she climbed everyone of them, but didn't really enjoy 'em.. Then she talked to some of my friends and told them what I did, and then she left me. She was a beauty. 20 years old, and I was 40." "So what do you do for a living, Ken?" "Maintenance Man." Ahh, yes the maintenance man. Readily disposable work.
I remember coming back to camp one night and seeing Ken standing there at the bear box, wolfing down some food. I had been dinking a little, partly cause I had just pitched off of Reed's that day, so I made some small talk, relating my air time. He wasn't wearing his usual hat and looked so much older with his male pattern baldness. He also had a desperate yet unfocused look in his eye, and could barely speak as he ram-rodded this white bread sandwich into his mouth. He also seemed to be shaking and limping around as some wounded animal would. Earlier I had seen him as lithe and fit, but now he looked diseased and lame. He wished me a nervous goodnight, hobbled around the camp some more picking up his things, and then stepped outside of the camp, passing between two pines. I watched as the bathroom light fell down across his frame as he moved into the darkness, until finally I could only see his lower right pant leg. Then I heard the zipper, and the subsequent splash on the pine needles. The splashing ended, the zipper went up, and then the pant leg was consumed by darkness. That was the last I ever saw of Kolorado Ken.
Actually I saw him the next morning in camp, but I though that the above ending would have been more dramatic. We need more people like Ken in the climbing community -- willing to take on any partner, always sharing his knowledge and experiences, always celebrating in your own accomplishments, and fun to talk to.
"You have a drinking problem, Mr. Hat!" ("No I don't Mr. Garrisan. Bartender, another Cosmopolitan, please!")
We had just returned from Camp 4 with a mighty buzz on, after having just seen the ludicrous FireFall movie at the Amphitheatre, and after having uncovered some skeletons in the mental closet of this Austrian actress who didn't believe in true love. As we stumbled back to Camp 4 we passed the ranger kiosk. Inside hung the holy grail -- an NPS Ranger Cover (hat). But where was the owner? I ranted to Chris. "When I was in the military we wouldn't be caught dead without our cover! What the hell are these dirt bags thinking?" I had to have it to prove some ridiculous point to myself. Chris wasn't talking me out of it either. I strutted over to the shack. Darn all the windows were locked. Plus, I was standing there under no fewer than two 100 watt lights. Hmmm. AHA! -- not all the windows were locked. I tried to lift the window on the building's door. It gave slightly, and then up it went. I lifted it enough to get my hand in so that I could open the door from the inside. In a second the cover was in my hand, the door was closed, and Chris was telling me to put it in the car trunk, like some dead body. I thought "That's a great idea!" and there it went.
I woke up the next morning and the very first conscious thought in my head was "YOU FRIGGIN' IDIOT! WHAT THE HELL DID YOU DO THAT FOR?! HOW OLD ARE YOU?" So I went to the trunk and fished it out. It was nice, with a heavy leather band etched nicely with the NPS logo, and tassels. I walked over to the kiosk where the ranger was now posted, and handed it to her saying, "Hey, I found this in the parking lot. She gave me a confused look, shrugged her shoulders, then said, "Oh, OK." And that was that. No damage done.
Astarith (sp?), the Austrian Actress Who Didn't Believe In Love
The obscenely ridiculous Fire Fall movie had just completed. The narrator was Huell Howser, who talked exactly like Lon Solomon, Pastor, McLean Bible Church ("Not a sermon, just a thought"?). Anyway, all of the families filtered out and there we were -- Live Hard, Vaquero, Astarith, and lots of alcohol. Chris went to use the bathroom, and the two of us got to talking. As Ken would say, "Yeah, she was a beaut, knowuttamean ?" Her cinnamon complexion, gentle lips, chocolate brown eyes, and smooth figure instantly put me at ease. Well, that and the six pack of Sierra Nevada, but whose counting? After a "Cheers" and "Salud" the conversation got heavy. We talked about Bubba's indiscretions and Hilary, about Arnold and his hometown in Austria, and how the locals like him cuz he's a momma's boy, we talked about cheating on your lovers, and about Mother/Son, and Father/Daughter relationships. She seemed to see Hilary as amazingly strong, and saw Big Bill as doing something that all men do, cannot help but doing, and doing something which women need to overlook and forgive. The needle then slid across the record player and I started. "Wha? What are you talking about?" She went on to explain that love dies after a time, and when you are old you cannot possibly love your mate the same as you did when you first met, for the rest of your life. This girl was single-handedly destroying any hope that I had for life. Chris seemed mildly concerned. "No," I jumped in without asking, "You do love the person the same, it just changes, matures, goes in a different direction." She wasn't impressed with my attempt at sensitivity. We then went into 'hypothetical' situations, which as most of you know, are never hypothetical in conversations such as these. She offered that if her husband cheated on her she would basically forgive and forget, and seemed to be seeking our approval, which she did not get. By this time we knew that she was married, and as she finished this sentence, the husband walked over. I tried to make out his face, but it was buried in the cumulus cloud layer above. Fortunately he sat down, and I thought I was looking at one of the Huber brothers. He and his partner had been climbing Astroman free. Turns out they bailed after 3 pitches, the husband saying in broken English that his partner was in a bad mood, and that they weren't climbing well, so they bailed. Astarith went to use the bathroom, so fortunately we were able to turn the conversation to climbing, and keep things light. This guy's English was not nearly as good as his wife's. She returned, we chatted some more, and then they were off, holding hands as they went. "Don't you see!? Her husband cheated on her and she was venting to us, trying to rationalize it. It was clear as day." Chris said. I thought about it. "Oh, I just thought she was making conversation?" "No, man, that was fucking weird, she's screwed up." I capitulated to Chris's view as we walked back to camp, thinking how sad it must be live with that.
Nutty over Nutcracker
When does it end? When I get to the top of this climb, dammit. Alas, it wasn't to be on this day. This was the first day of the record Valley heat, where the thermometer was tipping near 100. The air was so dry we were raisins after a short while. I took my favorite variation, up the 5.9 crack. It's gained by scrambling up a slab a la Carderock to a small ledge. Basically just pin scars for about 20ft, then the crack opens a bit and the last half is some great 5.8 jamming. Performed much better on the route this year. I down-climbed some to add some gear, but no sits, no falls. And the feet are thin! You really have to seek out those diorite patches so you're not scumming your feet everywhere. I sweated so much it was stinging my eyes and blurring my vision, as well as dripping onto the inside of my sunglasses. I think I'll come back in the Fall.
Live Hard sent the second 5.7 pitch (he was climbing Seneca 6s until he came to the Valley) with no problem. It gets a little awkward at the top, sort of Joshua Tree like, stemming a smooth corner, pushing with the palms of the hands as much as with the feet. We arrived at the platform, and I tried to convince Chris to send the third 5.7 pitch as well, but I gave him bad beta, telling him the belay was farther up than where it actually was. Sorry. I was mistaken. Since he was unfamiliar with the route (as was I, obviously), Chris decided to give the pitch to me. Some thin 5.7 fingers on a lieback went by, and the pitch was rather uneventful. But by the time that Live Hard reached the belay, our shoes were literally melting and our feet with them, as well as being dehydrated. So we decided to bail, rather than risk making dumb decisions because we were thirsty. The rappel went smoothly, and we had beers in hand in no time.
Next episode -- 'Kary the Bartender', 'Next Exit Gas, Food,......and MURDER!', 'IronMan Steve (aka Jimmy Steele)', 'Airborne on Reed's', 'Half-Hearted on Half-Dome', 'Gayblade Phil', and MORE!
COL Responds: We loved it! Can we run it as a published article on Climber Online!? Let us know!
Your site is really coming along.
From: roger billock
Posted: Monday, August 14, 2000
I like the site of the week awards and area reports.
climbing in Vietnam
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2000
Anyone know if there's climbing in Vietnam?
COL Responds: We don't have any sites (surprisingly!) in the COL Links List database discussing climbing in Vietnam. We went to the web and ferreted out a few sites. Here's one of them http://www.wwescapes.com/taketrip/viettrips.html . Take a look in the COL Links List database in the near future for more information. Thanks for checking in!
From: Doug Reilley
Posted: Wednesday, August 02, 2000
Hey Scott, you've done a great job with COL. I'm going out to the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake via Las Vegas. We'll be climbing (not frying I hope!) at some of the more shaded routes at Red Rock Canyon. I could write a trip report if you would like. I'll also probably climb in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Your report on the Prow was great! Thanks for dropping off the stickers Doug from ATO in Doylestown
COL Responds: Have fun in UT and Vegas! Try Big Cottonwood for cooler climbing on the north facing walls. A lot of horizontal strata similar to the Gunks, but a little looser.
"Climbing Life" website
From: Aaron Gibson
Posted: Saturday, July 29, 2000
Hello, My name is Aaron Gibson and I've produced a website entitled CLIMBING LIFE for about 5 years now. Would you be interested in adding it to your list? address is: www.geocities.com/yosemite/geyser/3022 I've considered getting my own domain name but I'm still too poor for that. Add me and I'll add your search engine to my site. I've got some great stories, maps, info. on climbing in the midwest (Oklahoma), buildering, bouldering, advice, etc. Been climbing over 10 years now. Thanks, Aaron
COL Responds: We love your site Aaron! We've done a bunch of routes in SW OK including the 'Hobbit' and the 'Last of the Good Guys'. We had a scorpion crawl out of a tri-cam placement on 'Last of the Good Guys'. Yikes! Good luck on Half Dome this summer (2000).
From: Lou Wilson
Posted: Monday, July 24, 2000
would you like to be linked up with the Montanismoe Baja California site & visa-versa? Our sit is in Spanish but we get lots of English speaking hits from all over Mexico.
COL Responds: Feel free to add your site to the COL Links List database. If you would prefer email us your site info including URL and email address, and we'll happily add it for you.
Climber Online looks good to me!
From: Phillip Rancos
Posted: Friday, July 21, 2000
I like this site and love the internet database. Outstanding! I plan on building a site and including your linklist with on the front page. I can find everything on there. Good luck and keep up the good work. Phil
I heard good things about this site...
Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2000
...but I think it needs work. Keep trying.
Posted: Tuesday, July 18, 2000
Sweet site! Now I have to go find the best BBQ in the southeast. L8R.
From: Bob Torry
Posted: Monday, July 17, 2000
You have a nice site here. I'd like to add a trip report with pictures. Please contact me ASAP. Thanks alot!
Great Links Lists
From: Tom Arneau
Posted: Thursday, June 29, 2000
Your links lists are the best on the net! I like freeclimbing.comm but they claim that climbers don't surf and I surf. There are a lot of good climber/surfers in the USA and I find that statement insulting from a guy in Belgium. Keep on trucking, Climber online!
Awsome links page!
From: Silver Surfer
Posted: Monday, June 26, 2000
Your COL Link List is the best on the web for climbers! Good karma to ya...
I like this site
From: Charles Davidson
Posted: Friday, June 23, 2000
You have a nice web site here. Keep up the good work! Charlie
On-line climber' guide
From: Drew Frye
Posted: Friday, June 09, 2000
My web site now features an climbers guide to Old Rag Mountain, VA, a location Rock and Ice Mag lists as the best crag in VA. Please check it out and tell me what you think. Please link to it if it is of interest. The aproach is tough, but the climbing is first rate.
Home wall building
From: Jon Jourdonnais
Posted: Wednesday, June 07, 2000
Did you at one time have an artical haveing a step-by-step method of building a home wall? If so I would be intrested in reading it.
COL Response: Good timing on your question. An article on building a simple home wall is on the list of things to do. Because of your interest, we will probably move the timetable up a bit. In the mean time, check out the following link for an excellent article on building a home training wall: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto_buildwall.htm We hope that helps! Staff @ Climber Online
You made up my mind
From: Frank Tussi
Posted: Tuesday, June 06, 2000
I am ordering a Silent Partner Today! Thanks for the review. I'm surprised I didn't know about this site before now. Frank Tussi
From: Mark Carroll
Posted: Sunday, May 21, 2000
Great story by Owl! It reminds me of the time I cleaned my chimney wearing my father's tuxedo. I'll have to write it up for COL...
MordorWall IV C2
From: Dave Indino
Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2000
I just went up to NH yesterday 5-17-00 to do the Mordor Wall it is C2 not A3 the first pitch is C1+ in a hollow flake not A2+ expanding it takes small nuts and cams no brass nuts were needed. P-2 is bomber C1 bat hooks between bolts the longest stretch is 3 hook moves between bolts then bomber fixed heads above a bolt to another bolt then the belay A2- no danger. P-3 A0 bolt ladder to 5.9 or C1 finger crack to a belay on a ledge. P-4 C2 through roof to belay. P-5 5.9 or C1 crack to top allow 8-10 hours to complete. Cheers Dave
From: Robert Fonda
Posted: Thursday, May 11, 2000
Nice job on the site. I am heading up to the Valley soon for something on Washingtons Column and El Capitan. I'll post Trip Reports as I write them.
Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2000
COL- Thanks for the microcam review. It's nice to see that someone finally did a comprehensive comparison using consistent units (inches vs inches, etc.). Cash is a bit tight for a new set set of either, but I'll give you $25 for that 1/2 friend knock-off. Cheers.
From: J.C. Hunter
Posted: Wednesday, May 03, 2000
I liked the small cam review. Keep up the good work and good luck on your site. JC
From: Staff @ Climber Online!
Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2000
Welcome to Climber Online! This site is dedicated to providing an online, global resource for climbers of all disciplines and abilities. Initially, we plan on only implementing some simple, but useful, scripts. We will soon have continuous online surveys to gauge what you, the online climber, wants to have access to. Currently, we have a powerful online links database available. You can search the database for information you might be looking for. You can add your personal or business listing for FREE. Please let us know how Climber Online can make your internet experience a better one. Thanks and on belay!